Sunday, May 31, 2009

Big Vacation with Mom and Rae!

Oh man, it's time to write about pictures... here we go.

This was the first part of my big nearly four week long vacation with my mom and sister Rachel. They came into Spain via Madrid and managed to catch the bus up north to Logroño. Since both of them had been in Logroño before, we took advantage of the first part of the vacation to visit some places in the northern autonomous community of the Basque Country. The Basque Country, or Pais Vasco, is divided into three provinces known in English as Biscay, Guipuscoa, and Alava.

The Basque Country has a different climate than La Rioja, as the latter where I live is much drier and hotter in summer. The Basque Country gets quite a lot of precipitation as it borders the sea to the north. It's a fairly mountainness or hilly region with a lot of vegetation and forests in the north. There are also a lot of nice beaches along the coast that are completely different from the more famous Spanish beaches on the Mediterranean. The northern beaches are more natural, with hills, trees, rocks, and a more temperate climate, than those more well known beaches like around Barcelona, Valencia, Malaga, Cadiz, etc. that tend to be flatter, larger, and more artificial.

This is Mundaka; it's not too far from Bilbao in the province of Biscay, or Vizcaya. The tide goes up, creating a river running inland, and down, revealing an expansive beach for surfers, sailboats, and suntanners alike.

This is a church outside of Mundaka called San Juan. It can only be accessed through the skinny stairwell that winds out from the shore to its peninsula location. The tide comes up and the stairs go away.

This is the castle of Butron located in Gatica of the Biscay province. The fairytale like castle dates back to the Middle Ages.

We owe many thanks to my flatmate Juan for taking us in his car to the many places we visited in the Basque Country. Here we are on the beach of Bakio, very near Bilbao in Biscay. Its close location to the metropolitan city leads it to be a very fashionable place for people to relax and catch a tan.


Here we are in front of the monumental vineyard hotel Marques de Riscal in Elciego of southern Basque Country in the province of Alava. The architect is Frank Gehry, the same man who designed the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, and the similarity between the two buildings is quite clear.

My mom is eating a pincho in Logroño with our friend Tony.

Laguardia: medieval village just north of Logroño in Alava, known for its hilltop location, vineyards, wineries, and beautiful narrow stonepaved streets.


Juan and the girls in the main square of Laguardia.


Lastly, here's Juan strolling through a portal in the center of lovely Gernika in the Biscay province. Gernika is most famous for being bombed by the Nazi Germany during the Spanish Civil War in an effort to overthrow the Basque and Spanish Republican governments. Pablo Picasso painted perhaps his most famous painting 'Guernica' in commemoration to the bombing.

Friday, May 1, 2009

Laguardia, Pais Vasco

I went to nearby Laguardia with Maria Jesus (one of the English teachers from my high school). Her boyfriend Jose Pedro is from there, and he gave me a wonderful tour of the medieval village. Laguardia is located in the autonomous community of Pais Vasco (Basque Country) in the southern province of Alava, which borders La Rioja, and is only about 18 kilometers or so from Logrono.

Laguardia is special because it's surrounded by medieval walls, inside which are narrow twisting streets packed with restaurants, bars, ancient buildings, churches, and nice plazas.
There are five ancient entrances to the old center of the city, one of which is pictured above.

Here's an example of some of the architecture featured on the side of the Church of San Juan (I believe).

Laguardia is an elevated village, and beneath it are hundreds of ancient medieval tunnels and hideouts that were possibly made during times of war. These caverns are also wineries or storage areas for wine. The exact origin of the tunnels is unknown, but they were once connected with one another underground, creating an elaborate system through which you could go arrive anywhere within the village walls. It's thought that these cellars were perhaps built at the same time as the houses. Today, these tunnels have been blocked off, separating them and the property of the respective owners. We visited a big winery in the center of town called El Fabulista. We climbed down into the caverns to taste the wines (a really nice experience).

Another church in Laguardia perhaps houses its most famous monument, a Gothic portico or arcade leading into the Santa Maria de los Reyes church/monastery. Constructed of stone in the 14th century and then painted for the last time in the 17th, this portico is unique because it has retained its color, and it's in really good shape. This is because there was a facade built around it that protected it and sealed it from the effects of the weather and erosion over the centuries.


Here is the altar inside the church. The shell design at the top is also quite unique, as I don't think I've seen it anywhere else.


Here I am standing with Jose Pedro, who's from Laguardia.


And here I am with my Maria Jesus. They were both incredibly nice to take me around and show me Laguardia. I would have never learned so much without them. We also had lunch together and they introduced me to several of the bars and restaurants. Thanks very much!


There are nice views from Laguardia of the surrounding countryside. Production of wine is very important to this region, and you can see many vineyards and wineries. The province of Alava, though in Pais Vasco, is close enough to La Rioja (and it's wine is close enough) that the wine produced there is tagged with the official La Rioja mark. The region is actually known as La Rioja Alavesa.
The mountains around Laguardia are beautiful. Most of the buildings in the valley between Laguardia and the mountains are wineries. One of them in the middle is a modern structure which attempts to mimic the shape of the mountains in the background. It might be hard to see the resemblance from here... This winery was designed by world famous Spanish architect Calatrava.